Friday, November 8, 2013

Exploring America's Main Streets on a motorcycle

Brant Ozanich, Dylan Ozanich and Wyatt McCall (left to right) were ready to depart from San Francisco's Sunset District on July 6, 2013.

Brothers Brant and Dylan Ozanich and Wyatt McCall were at a motorcycle shop in Hamilton, Montana, ordering a part for Dylan's bike when they met two old bikers from Texas and talked with them about their trip across the country.
Although they had no treasurer, Brant pointed to McCall to answer the question. "You guys are going to need this, trust me," said one of the older men, handing him $200 in cash.
The three friends, all in their early 20s, admit they looked a little raggedy at the time. "It was straight kindness," said McCall, and typical of the generosity of the bikers they met across the country. And it turns out, "we did need it the next day for more bike repairs."
The generosity of strangers repeated itself during the two-month summer journey of three young men on the cusp of adulthood to find and document Main Street culture and people across the United States. And making the trip on motorcycles connected them not just to the towns and people they visited, but also to the country's biker community.
An exploration of biker culture
Contributing their own money and raising funds from family, friends and Kickstarter, the trio started a blog, raised over $10,000 to fund the trip and pay for the pre- and post-production costs of documenting their journey. They documented the journey on theirblog and the reddit online community, and they hope to have adocumentary and book out sometime next year.
Traveling on motorcycles turned out to be key. Dylan rode a 1982 Yamaha XJ 750 Seca ($500 cost); Brant rode a 1980 Yamaha XJ 650 Maxim ($500); and McCall rode a 1985 Honda V65 Magna ($1500 cost). "On Maxim, On Magna, On Seca" was a mantra they picked up for the trip.
"We didn't know motorcycles were going to be that much of a connection between people, but they were," said McCall. "Every time you get to a new place, you're part of this new community."
"With motorcycles you feel the scenery and the microclimate change and smell the fields you drive through," said Brant. "Besides, it's just plain badass."
Finding their first Main Street
They packed up their bikes and left around noon on July 6. They planned to head north, turn east to get to New York, south to Mississippi and then through Texas and the Southwest to return home to California, But they decided not to keep to a strict schedule, allowing for fellow travelers to guide them on their way.
It didn't take long to hit pay dirt. A few hours after they hit the road, they found their first Main Street in Point Arena, a small town north of San Francisco.
As they hopped off their bikes, the locals they met convinced them to come back the next day for a parade marking Independence Day. "The whole community came out and let us be a part of it and accepted us into the community," Dylan said.
That serendipity set the tone for the rest of the trip.
The best sandwich in Idaho, or anywhere
The travelers only had a guarantee of places to stay (and eat) in New York and Los Angeles. Everything else would be an exploration, local recommendations and possibly, information from their not-guaranteed Internet connections.
The road led them to a Mennonite deli in Clark Fork, Idaho, that "made the best sandwiches we've ever tasted," said McCall. They bought sandwiches and drove a mile down the road into Montana near a bridge to picnic and more. "We jumped off the bridge to swim," Dylan said. And the drive through the Bitterroot Mountain range that cuts Idaho and Montana wasn't too shabby either.
They also explored the source of their food, working for five days atEcho Valley Farm in Wisconsin in exchange for room and board. "It was some of the most gorgeous, breathtaking American looking farmland I've ever seen, with rolling green hills and grain mills," Brant said. "It felt like what we were looking for the whole time -- true America heartland."
The farm's kindness was typical of the people who gave them shelter on their journey. "We pulled up, three dirty bikers, to this nice sustainable farm," he said. They "showed us a nice place to park the bikes, took us on a tractor up around the whole property and told us about everything they were doing."
A willingness of strangers to share their stories was also typical. Shortly after they crossed the Mason Dixon Line into Maryland and found a good campsite at Catoctin Mountain Park, they heard music coming through the woods. "Was it a violin or cello?" said McCall, so they went to explore it.
They discovered two older Korean men playing songs about Korea on their saxophones. "We found the coolest guys on the whole trip," said McCall.
Busted shocks and other struggles
The trip wasn't without its troubles. Dylan's shocks stopped working somewhere in Montana. "For a few days I didn't know if my bike would be able to make it," he said. But they were able to fix it. "We pulled it all apart in the forest, drained it and put in new fluid."
Brant also had the smallest gas tank, holding a gallon less than the other two bikes. He also had the worst gas mileage. And so he ran out of gas at least five times on the trip, and coasted into gas stations on fumes at least three times. "I learned toward the end of the trip to carry a water bottle or two of gas."
By the time they arrived home in San Francisco on August 28, everyone was glad to sleep in their own beds again.
"For the first six days back, McCall was at his girlfriend's house, and Dylan and I sat on the couch watching movies," said Brant.
'An adult within my society'
Giving up the benefits of home for a couple months was worth the journey. Dylan left San Francisco thinking it would be a way to transition from his youth to adulthood. Along the way, he hoped to learn "what it means to be a man in my society." While he doesn't have any specific answers, "seeing my country and understanding what my country is about ... helped me understand that more."
While Brant has always liked to travel and experience new things, he thought he would graduate college, get a job and save for his next planned trip. Not anymore. "Being out there in America on the road, and roughing it, inspired me to book a plane ticket to South America with my last $400," he said. "I thought, 'If you did this, you can do pretty much anything without a lot of resources.' "
McCall, who had graduated in May not knowing what he wanted to do, thinks travel and video may be his calling.(And he learned how to ride a motorcycle along the way.)
The three friends credit each other with making it an amazing experience. "We did get in fights and have problems, but we wouldn't have been able to do it without each other," said Dylan.
"Every different leg of the trip, there was one pushing, one dragging and one on a stretcher," he said. "It would change every single day."
"We wouldn't have made it across the country and back without the others."

Best affordable island hotels

Lefkes Village Hotel in Paros delivers a Greek island vacation without the high prices of neighboring islands.

Too often the daydream of lounging under palm trees on some enchanted island is punctured by the reality of sky-high hotel and resort prices.
But there's no need to despair or settle for some landlocked compromise. We've pinpointed affordable island hotels that span the globe, from destinations usually reserved for big spenders to others barely on the radar of most travelers. All of our favorites have room rates that start below $200—some as low as $70. And these hotels have more going for them than price point, whether it's an oceanfront location or cozy charm.
Whatever your idea of paradise, we think you'll agree that every gem on our list deserves treasure island status.
Part of the Cyclades, Paros delivers all the archetypal Greek island draws—whitewashed churches, bougainvillea-festooned houses, panoramic Aegean views—without the high prices of neighboring hot spots Santorini and Mykonos. Case in point: this 20-room contemporary hotel in the quiet mountain village of Lefkes, with a swimming pool, a small museum, and a tavern that uses ingredients gathered from the surrounding fruit trees and gardens. From $70.
The island of Phu Quoc (the country's largest) is firmly on the tourist radar these days, yet it still retains the serene small-town essence that first drew intrepid travelers to its balmy shores. This elegant two-story resort radiates French colonial-era charm: airy rooms with net-draped beds with either lush tropical garden or ocean views, a dining room serving Pan Pacific cuisine on a long veranda beneath lazy ceiling fans, and a clubby lounge bar with scarlet walls. From $140.
Copamarina occupies prime oceanfront real estate on Puerto Rico's less-explored southern coast, complete with a palm-fringed beach and 20 acres of tropical gardens. It's a setting that more than makes up for any style shortcomings. Take advantage of the recently updated on-site spa, two seafood-oriented restaurants, and several pools, or venture farther afield. The historic seaside town of Guánica is within walking distance; nearby adventures include bird-watching in Dry Forest Reserve and snorkeling by tiny Gilligan's Island. From $145.
Amelia Island combines the Spanish moss-draped romance of the South with a laid-back tropical ambience. And this boutique Italianate-style villa is the perfect base from which to take it all in. The historic building (est. 1885) displays all manner of over-the-top details: dormers, bay windows, massive chimneys, balustraded balconies, and a 15-foot tower. Rooms feature canopy or four-poster beds, fireplaces, and bathrooms that will thrill any nostalgics yearning to soak in a Victorian-era claw-foot tub. From $180.
Overlooking Trinity Bay and the harbor of Ship Cove, Fishers' Loft is found on one of Atlantic Canada's most fascinating, idiosyncratic islands. Designed in the clapboard-and-shingles style of the late 1800s, this cozy inn evokes Newfoundland's seafaring past; guests have the chance to spot whales and icebergs out the mullioned windows, depending on the season. Meals are sourced with ingredients gathered from the inn's greenhouse and gardens. From $99.
A big hit with honeymooners, the lush Caribbean island of St. Lucia can also take a big hit on your wallet, thanks to its slew of high-end resorts. Not so at this sweet family-run hotel near Castries on the northwest coast. There's no beach here, but the auberge has a lovely pool and is on sailboat-packed Vielle Bay, close to a large lily pad--filled pond popular with hundreds of white egrets. Snag a table at the on-site restaurant for seafood risotto and lobster. From $125.
For an island getaway with a dose of history, consider this quaint 40-acre resort on the largest of Washington State's San Juan Islands, overlooking East Sound and Cascade Bay. Rosario shares land with Moran Mansion, the magnificent former home of shipbuilder and onetime Seattle mayor Robert Moran. It's now a museum featuring archival photographs, model ships, and an impressive collection of Arts and Crafts furnishings amassed by Moran. From $99.
Word has spread about the Samaná peninsula, an unspoiled stretch of coastline in the island's northeast corner, far from the madding crowds of the Puerto Cana resort region. Part of the peninsula's appeal is its bevy of stylish small hotels, among them, Villa Serena on Las Galeras Bay. It has all the classic Caribbean colonial features -- Palladian arches, wooden shutters, acres of white gingerbread trim—set in sprawling tropical gardens just steps from the sand. Daily alfresco yoga sessions overlooking the ocean are a highlight. From $110.
It's not hard to understand why T+L readers voted Palawan their favorite island in the 2013 World's Best survey; the lightly populated archipelago shows off the sublime underwater richness of the Philippines. After diving or snorkeling in the surrounding coral reef, retreat back to your cottage at this low-key resort at the foot of towering limestone cliffs. Simple tropical furnishings—bamboo floors and walls, bright textiles, and terraces slung with hammocks—keep the focus on the outrageously beautiful ocean views. From $85.
Dreams are made of this: a charming family-run hotel in one of Italy's most upscale destinations for around $100 a night. Whitewashed La Tosca also occupies a lofty position, providing glimpses of the Faraglioni rocks from the breakfast terrace. Rooms are simply furnished, with vibrant textiles, tiled floors, and windows opening onto either the gardens or the Mediterranean. It's within strolling distance of the island's famous Piazzetta, the Gardens of Augustus, and the Monastery of St. Giacomo. From $100 (closed November--March).

10 of the world's most scenic cemeteries

Designated a National Historic Landmark in 2006, Brooklyn's Green-Wood Cemetery had its 175th anniversary in 2013. This spring 2013 photo shows the cemetery chapel.

That doesn't surprise most people. Because I'm a crime novelist, they expect me to peer into the dark, shivery corners everyone else avoids. But the reasons I love graveyards have little to do with the spooky. To me, they're beautiful green spaces and open-air art museums.
While there are two famous American cemeteries that rate as tourist attractions in their own right -- Arlington and Gettysburg -- there are others that deserve to be better known. Here are my 10 favorite final resting places around the world. They should be on every traveler's list of things to see before they... you know.
Close your eyes and imagine 478 acres of rolling hills, complete with several ponds, a lake, a glorious view of the Statue of Liberty and thousands of historic monuments. Throw in a chapel that's modeled on Christopher Wren's Thomas Tower at Oxford's Christ Church College, and you've got Brooklyn's spectacular Green-Wood. The cemetery took a beating from Hurricane Sandy, losing some 300 mature trees, but the grand mausoleums and monuments are still in place.
This 1838 cemetery boasts National Historic Landmark status, in part because it's where the Battle of Long Island was fought in 1776. But it's just as significant to bird-watchers, and it's a member of the Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary System. Green-Wood offers a variety of ticketed tours that take you around its expansive grounds by trolley or into its catacombs by flashlight, but visitors are welcome to walk the grounds daily.
A sign at the entrance to the Granary Burying Ground claims that "Famous, infamous and unknown Bostonians are buried here." This small cemetery on Tremont Street, founded in 1660, holds many Revolutionary War heroes, including Paul Revere, John Hancock, Samuel Adams and James Otis. One of the grandest monuments belongs to Benjamin Franklin's family (though Ben himself rests in Philadelphia). One of the more infamous residents is Samuel Sewall, a magistrate who presided over the Salem witch trials.
Almost every headstone is eye-catching in its own right, with elaborate carvings of skeletons sporting scythes, winged skulls, sly-looking cherubs, and other symbols of mourning, as well as poetic epitaphs. The towering Egyptian Revival gate that marks the entryway is a work of art in its own right. Open daily, the Granary Burying Ground has excellent signage to point out the most famous -- and infamous --graves.
Mount Pleasant, Toronto
If you're not used to seeing cemeteries filled with baby strollers and joggers, brace yourself before visiting Mount Pleasant. It's best to regard it as a public park that happens to have a lot of permanent residents. I'd love to say that locals' enthusiasm for the place is part of my hometown's Victorian tradition -- back in 1876, when this cemetery opened, having family picnics at gravesites was considered normal behavior. But it's also true that when you see Mount Pleasant's rolling green hills, botanical gardens, leafy trees, and elegant fountains, you know that it's the cemetery's incredible beauty that draws people in. There are grand mausoleums here, belonging to families like the Eatons and the Masseys, and famous graves, such as pianist Glenn Gould's resting place, but the real reason to visit is to enjoy glorious green space in the middle of a frenetic city. Open daily from dawn to dusk.
New Orleans never had an easy time burying people -- with its water table, they could get unburied when it rained. So they devised a city of the dead with above-ground tombs and opened St. Louis No. 1 in 1789. Its whitewashed crypts, some topped with mournful statues and surrounded by wrought-iron gates, have a ghostly beauty that has been captured on film, most famously in "Easy Rider." The cemetery, as racially diverse as New Orleans itself, is a stop on the Louisiana African American Heritage Trail, and while it's primarily a Catholic burial place, it has a section for others, too.
One of its most famous residents may be the 19th-century voodoo priestess Marie Laveau, whose remains are believed to be in the Glapion tomb, and occult offerings are left there in her honor. Guided tours are available through Save Our Cemeteries, but visitors are welcome to wander through every day except Mardi Gras.
Situated on 37 acres in North London, Highgate is as almost much a nature reserve as it is a historic resting place. Wild as a classic English garden, it features trees, shrubs and flowers growing without human intervention, and they provide cover to Highgate's many living inhabitants, which include foxes. In the midst of all this greenery are magnificent stone monuments, some dating back to 1839 and so covered in ivy that the grounds can resemble the land that time forgot. But with famous people such as George Eliot, Karl Marx and Malcolm McLaren interred here, it isn't likely that anyone will ever pass it by. Highgate is divided into East and West cemeteries, with the latter only available for viewing by tour (buy tickets in advance through the website). East Highgate charges an admission fee, but you can explore it on your own.
This is the ultimate Who's Who of graveyards. It was established by Napoleon himself in 1804, with the emperor declaring, "Every citizen has the right to be buried regardless of race or religion." Since then, Père-Lachaise has welcomed writers (Balzac, Proust, Richard Wright, Oscar Wilde, Gertrude Stein and Alice Toklas); singers (Maria Callas, Edith Piaf); artists (Delacroix, Ingres, Modigliani, Corot, Seurat); and composers (Chopin, Bizet), among others. But the most popular gravesite of all is that of rock star Jim Morrison, whose relatively small grave has been so often vandalized that it is now guarded. The cemetery is open daily and visitors are welcome to explore. There's no admission charge.
It's a curious thing to stand on a city street and look up -- way up -- to spot the cemetery. Prague was, at one time, home to one of the wealthiest Jewish communities in Europe. But its inhabitants were still subject to some rather draconian rules, including one commanding that Jews could only be buried on a single city block. What's now called the Old Jewish Cemetery was that burial ground, and it was used continuously from the early 15th century until 1787. There was nowhere to go but up, and so centuries of tombs and monuments lie buried inside as more earth was brought in. There are some 12,000 tombstones at the top, though thousands more are buried here. It's a poignant thing to see so many headstones jammed together, yet each one is elaborately carved, inlaid with flora and fauna, symbols of a trade or hands reaching to heaven. Open daily, with an admission fee.
In Argentina's capital city, Recoleta is considered a chief attraction. Walled off from the tony neighborhood it inhabits, it's effectively a city-within-the-city, founded in 1822 and filled with elaborately carved tombs and fine Italian statuary. The most popular spot is the Duarte family tomb, which is where the country's most famous first lady, Evita PerĂłn, is buried. (The Duartes are her father's family; because the controversial Evita's body was stolen and mutilated by her husband's enemies after her death, it's now heavily protected.) Even if the names of famous Argentine families aren't familiar to foreign visitors, their extravagant memorials leave a lasting impression. Free tours are available in a variety of languages, and visitors are welcome to explore on their own.
Chile and Argentina have always been great rivals, so perhaps it shouldn't be a surprise that Santiago has a cemetery that aims to be even more spectacular than Buenos Aires'. Spread over 210 acres, and divided into elegant streets and boulevards, the Cementerio General has massive tombs designed to resemble Mayan temples, Venetian palazzos and other grand structures — they're so huge, you might start to wonder whether any living family members could be inside, too. But the most fascinating part of the site is the Monument to the Disappeared, a large-scale memorial to those who vanished under Augusto Pinochet's brutal regime. Undoubtedly not by coincidence, the Pinochet family tomb is a stone's-throw away. (Augusto Pinochet died in 2006, but his family, fearing vandalism, didn't place his cremated remains at the family tomb.) Open daily to visitors.
I'm embarrassed to admit that, when I visited the Mount of Olives, on the eastern side of Old Jerusalem, I was expecting a grove of olive trees. Instead, I found an expansive cemetery that dates back to biblical times and is still in use. One of the oldest monuments, at the foot of the mount in the Kidron Valley, is to King David's son Absalom. According to the Book of Zechariah, the Mount of Olives is where the Messiah will first appear, and so it's the first place where the dead will rise from their graves. The Jewish cemetery contains biblical kings as well as more modern Israeli leaders such as Menahem Begin, but there are also Christian and Muslim burial grounds here. Wherever you stand on the mount, it offers a uniquely beautiful view of ancient, walled Jerusalem.

7 of Europe's most beautiful villages

Travelers intent on getting to Tellaro must brave cliff-top roads or navigate a minuscule harbor.

The notion of postcard-perfect villages steeped in old-world charm has inspired centuries of travelers to fan out across Europe, seeking its secluded hamlets.
As a result, the continent's scenic spots rarely remain hidden for long. It doesn't take much to make a charming village feel uncomfortably popular. Consider the five fishing villages that make up Italy's Cinque Terre, where an evening summertime stroll often feels like shuffling through a packed amusement park, complete with overpriced restaurants and souvenir shops.
The first requirement of a beautiful village is a scenic location, whether among the Norwegian fjords or the sun-splashed Greek isles. But the finest also have distinctive features like the plaza ringed with high-gabled pastel façades in Telč, Czech Republic, or the unforgettable Victorian castle rising above the thatched roofs of Cong, Ireland.
Reaching some of these European beauties requires extra effort, yet the rewards are dazzling. Your eyes will thank you.
Tellaro, Italy
Snaking cliff-top roads and a minuscule harbor have protected Tellaro from the wave of tourism that has swallowed other Ligurian seaside towns like Vernazza and Portofino. A jumble of pastel buildings clings vertiginously to the sheer cliffs of Tellaro, which occupies the easternmost tip of the Golfo dei Poeti. It's named for the poets and literary icons like Lord Byron and D. H. Lawrence who have sought inspiration in this Mediterranean haven.
Bibury, England
The hilly Cotswold region is a designated "Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty" in southwestern England, and one of its loveliest villages is Bibury, where verdant meadows abut ancient stone cottages with steep pitched roofs. The River Coln, which bisects the village, teems with trout, but the most scenic area is Arlington Row, a lane of sepia-hued cottages built in the 17th century to house weavers from the nearby Arlington Mill.
Hallstatt, Austria
The storybook town of Hallstatt in central Austria enjoys a gorgeous setting on the bank of the Hallstätter See, between the pristine lake and a lush mountain that rises dramatically from the water's edge. A history of salt mining dating back thousands of years has translated into enduring prosperity for the town, which is most evident in the beautiful square ringed with ivy-covered buildings.
Folegandros, Greece
Santorini's streets sag with admirers, but on Folegandros, a nearby island in the Cyclades, you'll find similar architecture—streets paved in slate, whitewashed buildings decorated with colorful flowers, the occasional Greek Orthodox church with a bright blue dome—without the crowds. For a secluded swim, trek to Katergo, a sheltered stretch of beach where gentle, emerald-blue waves lap the pebbly shore.
Colmar, France
French and German influences commingle in this well-preserved Alsatian village, where local bakeries sell both croissants and kugelhopf, and restaurants specialize in foie gras and sauerkraut (or choucroute). A range of architectural styles, from German Gothic to French Neo-Baroque, can be spotted in the old town, which was spared destruction during World War II—thanks in part to the historical beauty of its cobblestoned lanes, quiet canals, and half-timbered houses.
Reine, Norway
North of the Arctic Circle, Reine is a pretty fishing village in the Lofoten archipelago, an area of starkly beautiful Nordic wilderness, where sapphire bays punctuate fjords and mountains. Many of the bright red fishermen's cabins (called rorbuer) have been converted into comfortable cottages for visitors that offer direct access to the Norwegian Sea. Settle in for a front-row view of the night sky and its mesmerizing entertainment, from summer's midnight sun to winter's northern lights.
TelÄŤ, Czech Republic
Residents of Telč, a small town in south Moravia, were once quite competitive about the beauty of their homes, as is evident today on the elongated main square, where one building is lovelier than the next. The Baroque- and Renaissance-style façades, featuring high gables painted in pale pastels, now support small shops and cafés. A grand Renaissance-era château and large fish-filled ponds surround the square.

10 things to know about visiting Detroit

Detroit was home to 2 million residents at its peak, but now the city is down to roughly 700,000. That's still 700,000 people living their lives in this city.

Detroit is a place whose story is often told by the numbers. It was home to 2 million residents at its peak, but now the city is down to roughly 700,000. And all of those residents live in a 139-square-mile city grappling with millions of dollars in debt that led the city to file for bankruptcy.
But 700,000 people still make their home here. There are square miles of the city that are empty, yes. But the rest of Detroit still has to live somewhere. And where they're living, they're really living. They're operating barber shops and beauty salons, they're working to build Jeep Grand Cherokees and Dodge Durangos at the Jefferson North Assembly Plant, they're going to see the Detroit City Football Club soccer team play at Cass Technical High School. E
Beyond the abandoned train station and empty Packard Plant is a city slowly making its way back from the brink. What Detroit will look like in the years to come is anyone's guess, but it doesn't mean things have ground to a halt in the meantime.
So what do you do in Detroit?
Bourdain explores Detroit Packard Plant
Parts Unknown: DIY BBQ
Parts Unknown Detroit: Pupusa House
Know that you haven't left civilization. Relax. You're in Detroit. It's a city, an American city. It's going through a tough time, sure. Detroit's problems show themselves more than other cities. But assess: Why are you in Detroit? For business? For pleasure? For curiosity? Regardless of why you're here, there will be something here you'll never forget. Welcome, and open your mind.
Savor African and African-American art. The great migration out of the rural South that began before World War I coupled with opportunities within the automotive industry made Detroit an enduring stronghold of African-American culture. The city of Detroit is home to one of the largest collectives of black artists, and the Charles H. Wright Museum of African-American History houses one of the world's best-curated collections of art from the African diaspora.
Also consider checking out the African Bead Museum, the Shrine of the Black Madonna bookstore and cultural center and pockets of mostly black-owned boutiques, galleries and eateries on the Avenue of Fashion along the northern portion of Livernois Avenue on the city's northwest side.
Tour Elmwood Cemetery. There are no more calming places anywhere than cemeteries, but Elmwood is special because of the haunting, Gothic monuments among lush, tree-lined paths. The founding fathers of Detroit -- and Michigan -- are buried here. And while you're on this side of town, head over to Indian Village, the city's premier historic district that once served as home to some of the area's wealthiest auto barons where houses still are maintained and occupied by many of the city's power brokers. Or stop for some coffee at one of the cafes in nearby West Village.
Walk Pallister Avenue. Even in a city built around the auto industry, there are hidden gems where your own two feet remain the best mode of transportation. Stroll down the brick-laid, American Foursquare-lined Pallister -- where no cars are allowed. While this residential pedestrian avenue takes you to a quieter, simpler time, it was developed by none other than the workhorses at General Motors.
The automaker had its headquarters nearby on West Grand Boulevard and sought to redevelop the area after a slow decline in the 1960s. While the plan didn't quite work out -- GM moved its headquarters downtown in the 1990s -- the residents there have maintained the original vision. And if you're feeling hungry, stop by New Center Eatery nearby for the best chicken and waffles in town.
Get hip to the latest pop-ups. The barrier of entry to entrepreneurship is lower in Detroit, and many budding business owners are taking advantage of the pop-up model to establish themselves. And other local talent finds them. Take The Taco Lady, for one: Wherever Detroit native Erica Class' traveling stand Two Dollar Tacos pops up, there's sure to be a good time. Class has connections with nearly all of Detroit's up-and-coming artists and musicians displaying their talents citywide. Look for @TwoDollarTacos on Twitter.
Sample culinary creations beyond the coney dog. Get some Asian Corned Beef. There are plenty of nooks and crannies hiding delicacies unique to Detroit that contribute to the city's flavor, and these handmade corned beef concoctions wrapped in egg rolls are hidden gems. True to many locally owned joints, Asian Corned Beef has one place on the west side (13660 Wyoming) and one on the east side (2847 E. Seven Mile).
Try our local sport. Football + bowling = Fowling. Got that? The story behind that portmanteau is this: The proprietor of Fowling Warehouse and his family invented a summer game based on horseshoes, except instead of ringing horseshoes around a metal rod, you knock down bowling pins with a football. Sounds easy enough, but veterans of the Detroit-bred sport know better. All the activity at Fowling Warehouse is spur-of-the-moment, so it's not uncommon for one-on-one matches to morph into an all-out dodgeball-style tournament with more footballs and pins. They're in two locations: Sundays at Eastern Market and a new location at a factory -- yes, a factory -- at 3901 Christopher in Hamtramck, a small city surrounded by Detroit.
Don't go urban exploring. Why would you want to go into an abandoned building? They're old, they're dangerous, they're full of asbestos. The street cred associated with going through these places is long gone. And most Detroiters are offended if that's the only reason you visit. Lastly, it's illegal -- and with more police on the streets thanks to donated patrol cars and a shift in internal structure, you're running a greater risk. If you'd like to explore a beautiful building, try the Albert Kahn-designed 1928 Fisher Building in New Center, a commercial district north of downtown, or the 1928 Redford Theatre on Lahser Road.
Don't ask stupid questions. Yes, 8 Mile is a real place. No, 8 Mile isn't exactly like the movie "8 Mile." Don't make assumptions, and use the same common sense in Detroit that you would anywhere else.

Remember that people are people. Detroiters are not meant to be ogled like exhibits in a museum. They're not to be talked down to, pitied, shamed or treated with kid gloves. The so-called "grit," "never-say-die spirit" and "determination" is not unique to Detroiters, either. It's in all of us, everywhere. Say hello. Smile. Shake hands. Be courteous. Be polite. Be normal. Welcome to Detroit.

Super Typhoon Haiyan, perhaps strongest ever, plows across Philippines

Super Typhoon Haiyan makes landfall

STORY HIGHLIGHTS
  • 3 people are reported dead and 7 are injured, authorities say
  • "This is really a wallop," says the governor of a typhoon-hit province
  • The storm is one of the strongest ever observed
  • People left homeless by a quake on Bohol island are among the most vulnerable
(CNN) -- Super Typhoon Haiyan -- perhaps the strongest storm ever -- plowed Friday across the central Philippines, leaving widespread devastation in its wake.
It roared onto Samar at 4:30 a.m., flooding streets and knocking out power and communications networks in many areas of the hilly island in the region of Eastern Visayas, and then continued its march, barreling into four other Philippine islands as it moved across the archipelago.
At least three people were killed and seven hurt, the National Disaster Risk Reduction and Management Council said Friday. Some 125,000 took refuge in evacuation centers and hundreds of flights were canceled.
With sustained winds of 315 kph (195 mph) and gusts as strong as 380 kph (235 mph), Haiyan may be the strongest tropical cyclone to hit land anywhere in recorded history. It will take further analysis after the storm passes to establish whether it is a record.
Its speed -- moving westward at 41 kph -- meant the worst was over quickly. But the damage was still severe. "About 90% of the infrastructure and establishments were heavily damaged," Gwendolyn Pang, the secretary general of the Philippine National Red Cross, told CNNI.
About 25 areas were hit, she said, adding that assessment teams were prepared to enter the stricken areas as soon as conditions allowed.
But they cannot do it alone, she said: "We will be definitely needing more support for this one."
She predicted the casualty toll will rise as soon as aid workers reach affected areas, where flood waters were as high as 10 feet.
Maryann Zamora, a field communications specialist for the charity World Vision, said her organization "has been working through so many disasters, so many typhoons -- but this is quite different."
"This is the strongest I ever felt so far," she said by phone from the island of Cebu.
Category 5 strength
Haiyan, known in the Philippines as Yolanda, retained much of its force as it moved westward with sustained winds of 295 kph (185 mph), which puts it well above the 252 kph threshold for a Category 5 hurricane, the highest category on the Saffir--Simpson hurricane wind scale.
Video showed streets flooded with debris and sheets of metal flying through the air.
Gov. Roger Mercado of Southern Leyte, a province in Eastern Visayas near the storm's path, said Friday morning that fallen trees had made impassable all roads. "We don't know the extent of the damage," Mercado said. "We are trying to estimate this. We are prepared, but this is really a wallop."
With sea travel suspended in many areas, more than 3,000 travelers were stranded in ports, the council said.
The typhoon was forecast to move away from the Philippines late Friday or early Saturday and head into the South China Sea in the direction of Vietnam.
Meteorologists predicted that it would maintain super typhoon intensity throughout its passage over the Philippines. A super typhoon has surface winds that sustain speeds of more than 240 kph (150 mph) for at least a minute, according to the U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.
Haiyan was so large in diameter that, at one point, its clouds were affecting two-thirds of the country, which stretches more than 1,850 kilometers (1,150 miles). Tropical-storm-force winds extended 240 kilometers from the typhoon's center.
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'Very real danger'
Ahead of the typhoon's arrival, thousands of people had been relocated away from particularly vulnerable areas in the city of Tacloban, which is situated in a coastal area of the region that bore the initial brunt of the storm.
Communications with Tacloban, which has a population of around 200,000, were disrupted after the typhoon struck. Video aired by CNN affiliate ABS-CBN showed streets in the city filled with water and debris.
In a speech Thursday, President Benigno S. Aquino III warned residents of the "calamity our countrymen will face in these coming days."
"This is a very real danger, and we can mitigate and lessen its effects if we use the information available to prepare," he said.
Authorities had aircraft ready to respond, and officials had placed relief supplies in the areas that were expected to get hit, Aquino said.
"The effects of this storm can be eased through solidarity," he said.
Earthquake survivors vulnerable
Authorities warned people in provinces across the country to prepare for possible flash floods, landslides and a storm surge as high as 7 meters (23 feet). About 125,000 people nationwide were moved to evacuation centers.
Among the most vulnerable were people living in tents on the central Philippine island of Bohol, where a 7.1-magnitude earthquake hitlast month, killing at least 222 people, injuring nearly 1,000 and displacing about 350,000, according to authorities.
On Friday, they got a second jolt -- this time from the typhoon's winds and rain, but they were spared a direct hit.
"For the past three weeks people are still experiencing aftershocks," said Aaron Aspi, a communications specialist in Bohol for World Vision. "And at the same time, these rains are giving them a really hard time."
Aspi said that, despite living in drenched tents, many people were afraid to relocate to sturdier structures because of the aftershocks.
Beach resort threatened
Another island near the storm's path was the popular beach resort of Boracay. Some tourists there cut short vacations on Thursday to get away from the possible danger.
Situated near an area of the Pacific Ocean where tropical cyclones form, the Philippines regularly suffers severe storm damage.
An average of 20 typhoons hit the nation every year.

In December, Typhoon Bopha wreaked devastation on the southern Philippine island of Mindanao. The storm, the most powerful to hit the country last year, is estimated to have killed as many as 1,900 people.